Santiago Island in Cape Verde: Itinerary, Stay, and Must-Sees
© Maxime Boudrias
Posted by Maxime Boudrias
8 min read
Updated: July 16, 2024
Santiago Island is a unique destination. It offers something for everyone, from paradise beaches to spectacular mountains, historical sites, and culinary experiences. If you're looking for a place to spend your vacation off the beaten path, full of culture and originality, Santiago Island is the ideal destination.
With sunshine and clear skies almost all year round, and pleasant temperatures around 25°C (77°F), Cape Verde is one of the best climates in the world for a stay.
Yet, this little gem is still largely unknown to the world!
My First Impression of Cape Verde
At first, I planned to spend a month on Santiago Island, but due to the COVID-19 pandemic and the comfort of the archipelago, I ended up staying for almost two years!
When I arrived in Praia, the capital of Cape Verde, I was immediately struck by the cleanliness and development of this small African country's city. The people were welcoming and seemed relaxed, plus the beautiful sea view and the lively streets of the Plateau, Achada Santo Antonio, and Palmarejo neighborhoods made my discovery very exciting.
I saw beautiful cars, paved roads, and colonial houses, which made me feel like I was in Western Europe. I must say that I had just come from Senegal, where it's not uncommon to see vehicles in poor condition, with missing mirrors, not to mention goats and sheep tied on the roof passing on dusty roads... But despite the chaos, Senegal remains one of my top favorites!
To wrap up, in Cape Verde, you can clearly notice the European heritage and influence of Portugal as a former Portuguese colony. It's also their official language, while retaining their rich African culture and local language, Cape Verdean Creole (or kriolu in Creole).
So, with all the experience I've gained from this part of the world, here are the best things to do on Santiago Island to plan your trip successfully and enjoy it fully!
The Most Beautiful Beaches of Santiago in Tarrafal
The town of Tarrafal is really my favorite spot on Santiago Island. I spent most of my time there, and honestly, you must go. The beaches are sublime, with views of the bay and Mount Graciosa. The town is full of cultural events, good food, and many activities, such as diving, fishing, hiking, relaxing on the white sand beach, and dreamy places for surfing.
On top of all that, it's your starting point to explore the northern part of the island. The town is just 20 minutes from Serra Malagueta and close to other interesting places like Ribeira da Prata and the rebel village of Rabelados, which I'll talk about later. It's the perfect place to settle and discover the surrounding wonders.
To know everything about what to do in Tarrafal, the best restaurants to eat at, and how to get there, follow my complete guide to the best things to do in Tarrafal on Santiago Island.
The Black Sand Beach of Ribeira da Prata
Just 15 minutes south of Tarrafal, you'll find Ribeira da Prata, with a beautiful road that winds between the mountains and the sea. This less touristy spot is perfect for enjoying the view, tranquility, and swimming in the waters of a volcanic sand beach. This fertile region is also home to local farmers who grow a variety of produce such as bananas, papayas, mangoes, sugar cane, and corn.
Stop by the beach just before entering the village of Ribeira da Prata via a lush path. The path is lined with tall palm trees, giving you a brief feeling of being in the African jungle. This landscape contrasts sharply with the drier regions of Santiago Island.
You can get there by taxi for about 1000 CVE or by using a pickup truck (Hilux) from the Tarrafal bus station, which will transport you for only 50 to 100 CVE one way. You can return the same way. Hilux pickups pass frequently during the day on the main road. Make sure to leave before 5 PM and avoid Sundays, as they are rarer at those times.
About 1 km south of the village, there are natural pools called "Cuba Piscina Natural" where you can swim. Also, enjoy a walk along the coast to admire the strength of the sea and these pools formed by volcanic rock erosion.
The Rebel Village of Los Rabelados
Located 35 minutes from Tarrafal by taxi or Hilux, the rebel village of Los Rabelados is a community worth discovering. Its name refers to the "rebels" who refused to submit to Portuguese colonial laws during the period of slavery. The village consists of small traditional straw houses, built using ancestral techniques, making it a unique experience.
The village tour is free, but it's always appreciated to buy a small souvenir or tip the local guides who offer to show you around. A small gesture of 200 to 500 CVE will help encourage the community to preserve their authentic way of life.
When you visit Los Rabelados, you'll discover their pottery, basket weaving, painting, and wood carving, as well as their traditional dances and music, while appreciating their courageous commitment to their culture.
Hiking in Serra Malagueta Natural Park
The Principal valley and its reservoir © Maxime Boudrias
When visiting Serra Malagueta, you'll encounter a landscape quite different from the beaches. The hike takes you either to the peaks with breathtaking panoramic views or down into the valley to the village of Principal, offering a real change of scenery.
The air is noticeably cooler, thanks to the altitude of 1064 meters and the many wooded areas. Even in the dry season, part of the park remains green. No palm trees here, but plenty of conifers that stand out, giving the impression of having left the tropics.
The park trails have a fascinating biodiversity with more than 120 plant species, about twenty of which are endemic. As you venture, you may have the chance to spot birds, reptiles, or small mammals like rodents and vervet monkeys.
Bring a raincoat and warm clothing in your backpack, as the weather can change quickly, bringing fog, rain, and cold with the wind.
Discover Cidade Velha: The First Colonial City of Cape Verde
Located about 20 minutes by car from the city of Praia, Cidade Velha is an ancient Portuguese colonial town classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was once the first capital of Cape Verde and is considered the oldest European city in sub-Saharan Africa. It features cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, historic churches, and an impressive fort.
Among the main tourist sites, you'll find:
- The Fortress of São Filipe, which overlooks the city and offers a magnificent view of the Atlantic Ocean.
- The intriguing ruins of an old cathedral named "Sé Catedral".
- Pelourinho Square, housing a stone pillar where slaves were publicly punished.
- Nossa Senhora do Rosário, one of the first Catholic churches in Africa that you can visit, just a few minutes’ walk from Pelourinho Square.
There are also many local restaurants and cafés where you can enjoy delicious traditional dishes, as well as souvenir shops where you can buy handcrafted items. As you stroll through the streets of the city, you will discover the history of slavery in Cape Verde and African culture influenced by Portuguese colonization.
Explore Praia: The Capital of Cape Verde
View from the Nice Kriola restaurant in Santo Antonio © Maxime Boudrias
Praia, the largest city in Cape Verde with its 160,000 inhabitants, is the heart of the island's action. This is where you'll find the biggest events, a wide variety of shops, good grocery stores, local bars, music shows, and a lively nightlife.
I recommend staying in the Santo Antonio and Palmarejo neighborhoods. They are the safest and you'll be just steps away from Quebra Canela beach and close to the center. Everything can be done on foot and by taxi, with a cost of about 200 to 300 CVE to move from one neighborhood to another.
Don't miss visiting the Plateau, the historic center of Praia, with its shops, cafés, and colonial buildings. Also, the bustling Sucupira Market, where you'll find everything from clothes to local specialties to spices.
When to Visit Santiago in Cape Verde
The ideal period to visit Santiago Island is from November to June. You'll enjoy mild and sunny temperatures as well as many cultural events celebrating Cape Verdean culture. On the other hand, from July to the end of October, the weather becomes hotter and more humid with a risk of rain, but you'll benefit from fewer tourists and lower prices for attractions.
For detailed advice and opinions on the best time for your trip, check our question and answer section on when to go to Cape Verde.
How to Get Around Santiago Island
Santiago Island is the largest in the archipelago but still quite small in terms of distances. If you were to drive around the entire island without stopping, it would only take you 3 hours. Most of your trips will generally last between 30 minutes and 1 hour, and everything is well-served by public transportation.
Here are three common transportation options in Cape Verde:
- Aluguer (Hiace): Shared minibuses that depart when all seats are occupied. For long distances, such as between Praia and Tarrafal or Praia-Assomada, this is the most common and economical mode of transport. You'll always find them in busy areas, like the bus station in Tarrafal and the Sucupira market in Praia. The fare is 700 CVE.
- Taxi: Easily found in the same places, near centers, and at the airport. For short distances, expect to pay between 200 and 1000 CVE. For intercity trips, for example from Praia to Tarrafal (75 km across the island), it will cost around 6000 CVE, and 4000 CVE if you need to go from Praia to Assomada (40 km). If you need to call one and don’t have a contact, simply ask an employee at a hotel or restaurant.
- Hilux: The local transport of choice for short distances, these are pickups that have been fitted with a cabin and benches in the back. They run on the main roads; just signal to stop them and hop in the back. For trips under 10 km, this is ideal and costs almost nothing, usually between 50 and 100 CVE. This is also what Cape Verdeans use to transport heavy goods or food when it's too far to walk.
Safety Tips for Traveling in Cape Verde
Cape Verde is generally a safe destination, but it's important to take some precautions. Most tourist spots, including beaches, are secure. However:
- Never leave your personal belongings unattended: thefts can occur near beaches, in public places, and restaurants.
- Avoid venturing alone or as a couple at night: always use a taxi to return. Public lighting is insufficient, and although violence is rare, armed robberies can happen.
- Swim only at supervised and authorized beaches: some areas can be dangerous due to strong currents or rocks. It's also important to heed warning signs and lifeguard instructions.
- Buy bottled water: if you use tap water, purify or boil it before drinking.
- Always seek advice from your hotel, trusted locals, or authorities before venturing out: people have been attacked or robbed while hiking off-trail or camping where they thought it was safe.
Map of Points of Interest on Santiago Island
Here is an overview of the places mentioned in this guide. Click on the markers for more details.
Now that you know more about Santiago Island, I sincerely recommend checking out my guide to the must-see spots in Tarrafal. I guarantee it will become your favorite destination of your trip.
With all this, you'll have an unforgettable stay, among the charm of its inhabitants, the beautiful beaches, the grand valleys where land and sea meet, and the authenticity of African culture that will remain etched in your memory, just as they will always be in mine.
Bon voyage!
FAQs
Where to Buy a Local SIM Card on Santiago Island, Cape Verde?
You can buy a local SIM card at Praia Airport and at several shops, including in Assomada or Tarrafal. Your prepaid plan will be activated immediately.
For better flexibility and lower costs, it's advisable to bring an unlocked phone and insert a SIM card from one of the two local operators, Alou (CV Movel) or Unitel.
For instance, Alou's "D'Kel Bom Mês 1" plan costs less than 10 euros (700 CVE), offering unlimited calls and SMS within the Alou Mobile network and 5 GB of internet for one month. You can check all other prepaid plans on Alou's website. The site is in Portuguese, but it's straightforward to understand the prices and details.
The network is very reliable, with 4G coverage almost everywhere on the island. Even though the signal might be weaker in more remote areas, this is rare, and you'll have a good connection near the cities. Make sure your SIM card is activated properly and test it on-site to avoid any issues.
To recharge, the easiest way is to do it on-site by going to any store of your service provider. It's safer this way, as you can also recharge at ATMs, supermarkets, cafes, or other shops, but these procedures can be complex if you're not familiar with them and are only staying briefly in Cape Verde.
Have a great trip! Be sure to find out about the best activities to do on Santiago Island before you arrive to make the most of your visit!
When to Visit Cape Verde?
It's normal to want to spend your vacation during the best time of the year, and you're in luck because Cape Verde enjoys at least 8 months of good weather. The other 4 months are still quite enjoyable and have the advantage of being less expensive.
Here's a detailed look at each period of the year:
The Dry Season in Cape Verde
If you plan to visit Cape Verde, whether on Santiago Island, Santo Antão, Sal, Boa Vista, or any other island in the archipelago, the best months to visit are from November to June. The weather is mild and sunny, and many festive and cultural events are organized to celebrate Cape Verdean culture and bring people together. Although the good weather can extend until mid-July, the skies might be a bit less clear at that time, but it's still pleasant as rain is very rare.
If you can, opt for early November to February, as the landscapes will be all green, which is beautiful, hence the name of the country, Cape Verde (in Portuguese, verde means "green"). For the rest of the season until August, it's still good, but you'll see how arid it gets; some places, depending on the island you're on, can become real deserts, the contrast is stunning.
The Harmattan and Sahara Sand
It's important to note that between November and March, you might encounter the impressive phenomenon of the Harmattan, which usually occurs in winter and can last a few days. The Harmattan winds sometimes reduce the clarity of the landscapes by carrying sand from the Sahara to Cape Verde, but it shouldn't stop you from fully enjoying your stay. It's actually quite fascinating!
The Rainy Season in Cape Verde
From July to late October, expect some rain and warmer, more humid weather, especially in September-October. The advantage of traveling at this time is that you'll encounter far fewer tourists and can enjoy the best spots at lower prices. But personally, I recommend waiting until November to benefit from the cooler temperatures and clearer landscapes.
From Santiago to Fogo: How to Take the Ferry from Praia?
If you're staying in Santiago and want to explore Fogo and its famous volcano, here's everything you need to know to easily organize your ferry crossing from Praia:
To book your ferry from Praia (Santiago) to Fogo, check out our comprehensive guide on booking tickets with CV Interilhas. You'll find all the necessary information to easily make your reservation online.
- Cost of the Trip: The price for a ferry ride between Santiago and Fogo is 4,450 CVE per adult, whether for a one-way or round-trip.
- Departure: The ferry departs from Praia's port "Porto da Praia", located south of Nelson Mandela Airport. This port is the main departure point for inter-island crossings from Santiago.
- Arrival: You'll arrive at the port of São Filipe in Fogo "Porto Vale Cavaleiros". It's about 3 km from São Filipe, the island's main town. You can take a Hilux truck or a taxi to get to São Filipe's center or your hotel.
- Travel Time: The crossing takes about 5 hours.
From São Filipe, you can catch minibuses (known as "alugers") that will take you directly to Portela, the village at the base of the Fogo volcano. In Portela, you'll find hostels to stay and explore the area. You can also hire a guide for a hike up to the Pico de Fogo summit.
Happy exploring!
